Formulating a Skincare Product with Lyophilized (Freeze-Dried) Placenta Stem Cells & MCT Coconut Oil

by Chris Williams

Formulation for a Serum
A serum is a lightweight formulation that penetrates deeply into the skin, delivering concentrated active ingredients.
Ingredients (for 30ml bottle):
  • Lyophilized Placenta Stem Cells – 100-300 mg (rehydrated with sterile water before use)
  • MCT Coconut Oil – 15 ml (carrier oil for stability and absorption)
  • Squalane (from olives) – 5 ml (enhances penetration, reduces transepidermal water loss)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Low Molecular Weight) – 1 ml (deep hydration, anti-aging)
  • Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – 0.5 ml (antioxidant, stabilizes oil-based formulation)
  • Coenzyme Q10 – 1 ml (antioxidant, supports cell energy production)
  • Essential Oils (optional, for scent and added benefits) – 0.5 ml (e.g., frankincense for skin rejuvenation)
  • Preservative (if using water-based ingredients, e.g., Leucidal Liquid SF or Neossance Hemisqualane) – 0.5 ml
Instructions:
  1. Rehydrate the lyophilized placenta stem cells in sterile water or saline solution.
  1. Mix MCT oil, squalane, vitamin E, and CoQ10 in a sterilized container.
  1. Add the rehydrated placenta stem cells to the oil mixture and blend using an emulsifier.
  1. If adding hyaluronic acid, mix it with a small portion of water before adding to the main formulation.
  1. Store in an airtight, dark glass dropper bottle to prevent oxidation.
Formulation for a Lotion
A lotion requires emulsification to combine water and oil phases.
Ingredients (for 100 ml):
  • Lyophilized Placenta Stem Cells – 300 mg (rehydrated with sterile water)
  • MCT Coconut Oil – 15 ml (moisturizing, carrier oil)
  • Shea Butter or Mango Butter – 10 ml (adds richness and occlusivity)
  • Emulsifying Wax (OliveM 1000 or Polawax) – 5 ml (allows oil and water to mix)
  • Aloe Vera Gel – 30 ml (hydration and soothing)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (High Molecular Weight) – 2 ml (surface hydration)
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – 2 ml (skin brightening, anti-aging)
  • Preservative (e.g., Optiphen or Leucidal Liquid) – 0.5 ml
  • Distilled Water or Rose Hydrosol – 35 ml (hydrates and blends ingredients)
Instructions:
  1. Heat MCT oil, shea butter, and emulsifying wax in a double boiler.
  1. In a separate container, heat aloe vera gel and distilled water until warm.
  1. Slowly add the water phase to the oil phase while blending continuously.
  1. Once cooled, add lyophilized placenta stem cells (rehydrated) and mix well.
  1. Add niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and preservative, then stir until smooth.
  1. Store in an airless pump bottle to maintain freshness.
Effectiveness & Safety
Effectiveness
  • Placenta Stem Cells: Known for their regenerative properties, placenta-derived stem cells contain growth factors like EGF, TGF-β, and FGF, which promote collagen production, wound healing, and anti-aging benefits.
  • MCT Coconut Oil: Lightweight, non-comedogenic, and antimicrobial, making it suitable for all skin types.
  • Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide: Proven hydrating and brightening agents that work well in combination with growth factors.
Safety Considerations
  • Sterility: The rehydration process must be done in sterile conditions to prevent contamination.
  • Preservation: Since the serum is mostly oil-based, it has a longer shelf life, but any water-based ingredients in the lotion require a broad-spectrum preservative.
  • Allergies: Some individuals may have sensitivities to placenta-derived ingredients. Patch testing is recommended.
  • Regulatory Compliance: The source of placenta stem cells must be verified to ensure ethical and legal compliance.
Legal Considerations
United States (FDA)
Placenta-derived ingredients in cosmetics are not outright banned but must be properly processed and sourced from FDA-compliant suppliers.
The product cannot make medical claims (e.g., "heals scars" or "cures wrinkles") unless backed by clinical trials and registered as a drug.
Proper labeling must indicate that it is for cosmetic use only.
Europe (EU Regulations)
Requires compliance with EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009, including ingredient safety assessments and documentation.
The Novel Ingredient Status may require additional testing for placenta-based products.
Asia (China, Japan, Korea, Philippines, etc.)
Some countries ban human-derived ingredients in cosmetics (e.g., China) but allow animal-derived placenta.
South Korea and Japan have a history of using placenta-based skincare, but certification is required.
Additional Ingredients to Enhance the Product
Peptides (e.g., Matrixyl 3000)
Stimulates collagen and enhances skin repair.
Bakuchiol
A natural retinol alternative with anti-aging benefits.
Licorice Extract
Skin brightening and anti-inflammatory.
Resveratrol
Antioxidant that protects against environmental damage.
CBD or CBG
Anti-inflammatory and calming for the skin.
Astaxanthin
Strong antioxidant for UV protection.
Product Pricing Strategy
Why Increase the Price?
1
Luxury Positioning
Placenta-derived stem cell skincare is already a high-end market segment. Raising the price aligns with premium branding and exclusivity.
2
High Perceived Value
Competitor products using growth factors and stem cells (e.g., Augustinus Bader, La Mer, and MBR Skincare) retail for $250 - $400 per unit.
3
Premium Packaging
To justify a higher price, use high-end packaging (e.g., UV-protected glass bottles, gold accents, airless dispensers).
4
Clinical Testing & Marketing
If you invest in clinical testing, you can further differentiate the product and justify premium pricing.